Sailing into Cagliari’s harbor gives the best quick overview of its layout. It rises in a series of bastions from a waterfront terrace, making this head-on view more useful than a flat map. For flat is what Cagliari is definitely not.
Sardinia's capital’s long history as the goal of invaders made these walls and bastions necessary, although they didn’t keep out all the invaders. As a result, the city has a charming mix of styles and architectural influences, as well as some artistic treasures left by the invaders.
Exploring Castello
One of these, a splendid medieval pulpit carved in stone is on the front wall inside Cagliari’s Cattedrale di Santa Maria. This cathedral sits almost at the very top of the city, but is worth the climb or taxi ride not only for the treasury of art is contains (don’t miss the crypts), but for the chance to wander the narrow stone streets and piazze surrounding it. This most historic and atmospheric quarter of the city is also the highest, Castello, whose walls and towers date from the Middle Ages.
Some of those walls were torn down, some to build the later bastions that now provide some of the best viewpoints. Broad terraces on top of these are filled with locals enjoying the sweeping views over their city from open-air cafes. Bastion St. Remy is the best known, approached by winding streets or by a monumental gate that encloses grand staircases.
Cagliari’s Ancient History
Cagliari’s history goes back even farther, and a 2nd-century Roman amphitheater carved into a hillside below is also open to explore. But before doing that, look back to Sardinia’s earliest residents, the Nuraghic peoples, best known for the multi-story towers they built from huge stones.
Inside the Museo Archeologico are breathtaking collections of ancient bronze and gold work, as well as other artifacts from these people who lived here more than 3,000 years ago. Sharing the Cittadella dei Musei at the far end of the Castello quarter, the art museum holds magnificent gold and polychrome retablos that once adorned the altars of the city’s baroque churches. From here Vialle Buoncammino leads down to the Roman amphitheatre.
Getting Around Cagliari
Instead of climbing the steep streets and stairs (some of which can be avoided by using the public elevators behind Santa Chiara off Piazza Yenne and at Bastione Saint Remy), it is a short taxi ride from the port to the top – ask for the Cittadella dei Musei. It’s all downhill from there.
Booking.com
Another option, and one that assures seeing the city’s highlights – including many treasures that a visitor would never find on his own – reserve ahead for the city’s premier art and history guide, Paola Loi (paola@mmv.net, 338 266 1320). She skillfully navigates Cagliari’s maze of streets and knows who has the keys to the closed churches; Cagliari’s hidden sights don’t remain hidden with her as a guide.
Author Paul Nchemba
Sardinia's capital’s long history as the goal of invaders made these walls and bastions necessary, although they didn’t keep out all the invaders. As a result, the city has a charming mix of styles and architectural influences, as well as some artistic treasures left by the invaders.
Exploring Castello
One of these, a splendid medieval pulpit carved in stone is on the front wall inside Cagliari’s Cattedrale di Santa Maria. This cathedral sits almost at the very top of the city, but is worth the climb or taxi ride not only for the treasury of art is contains (don’t miss the crypts), but for the chance to wander the narrow stone streets and piazze surrounding it. This most historic and atmospheric quarter of the city is also the highest, Castello, whose walls and towers date from the Middle Ages.
Some of those walls were torn down, some to build the later bastions that now provide some of the best viewpoints. Broad terraces on top of these are filled with locals enjoying the sweeping views over their city from open-air cafes. Bastion St. Remy is the best known, approached by winding streets or by a monumental gate that encloses grand staircases.
Cagliari’s Ancient History
Cagliari’s history goes back even farther, and a 2nd-century Roman amphitheater carved into a hillside below is also open to explore. But before doing that, look back to Sardinia’s earliest residents, the Nuraghic peoples, best known for the multi-story towers they built from huge stones.
Inside the Museo Archeologico are breathtaking collections of ancient bronze and gold work, as well as other artifacts from these people who lived here more than 3,000 years ago. Sharing the Cittadella dei Musei at the far end of the Castello quarter, the art museum holds magnificent gold and polychrome retablos that once adorned the altars of the city’s baroque churches. From here Vialle Buoncammino leads down to the Roman amphitheatre.
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Getting Around Cagliari
Instead of climbing the steep streets and stairs (some of which can be avoided by using the public elevators behind Santa Chiara off Piazza Yenne and at Bastione Saint Remy), it is a short taxi ride from the port to the top – ask for the Cittadella dei Musei. It’s all downhill from there.
Booking.com
Another option, and one that assures seeing the city’s highlights – including many treasures that a visitor would never find on his own – reserve ahead for the city’s premier art and history guide, Paola Loi (paola@mmv.net, 338 266 1320). She skillfully navigates Cagliari’s maze of streets and knows who has the keys to the closed churches; Cagliari’s hidden sights don’t remain hidden with her as a guide.
Author Paul Nchemba
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