Surely no-one can be unimpressed by Phanom Rung. It is a Cambodian-style temple of intricately carved sandstone, built 900 years ago on the crest of an extinct volcano. The best way to reach and appreciate the central pagoda is a 500 meter walk along an ancient road and up a stairway of massive slabs edged by carved stone pillars. On a clear day the view from the top extends far out over the plains of Northeast Thailand.
Not surprisingly, Phanom Rung has been proposed as part of a World Heritage site that will be the third to be designated by UNESCO within this region. More surprisingly, there is almost nobody here.
Welcome to Isan
Since the 1980s Thailand's tourist industry has boomed massively and a few favourite destinations like the capital Bangkok, the city of Chiengmai in the north and Phuket in the far south attract millions of visitors each year. The Northeast region, or "Isan" as it is known locally, has remained curiously outside most travel itineraries.
Booking.com
Isan makes up a third of the country's area and while it lacks a sea coast it has its own distinctive history, culture and traditions, and it has much to offer the traveller who is looking for a real break from the everyday 21st century world. Links have always been strong across the magnificent Mekong river, which forms the border with modern Laos. The people of Isan and Laos share a common language, as well as similar forms of music, local customs and cuisine.
Ancient Roots
But remnants of ancient Cambodian civilizations are among the most prominent items on a list of the region's attractions. The Phi Mai temple complex near Isan's largest city, Nakhon Ratchasima (locally known as Korat), is more accessible than Phanom Rung, though less spectacular. Further east at the southern tip of Sisaket province the Khao Phra Vihan temple was built on what seems an impossible site at the top of an escarpment rising from the forested plains of northern Cambodia.
Further to the north near Udornthani the archaeological site at Ban Chiang has attracted scientific interest since its discovery 40 years ago. It was then the world's oldest known bronze age site and led to a recalibration of the early stages of human history.
The Great Outdoors
The region's national parks offer opportunities for hiking, bird watching and other forms of nature study, as well as less demanding outdoor activities. Khao Yai covers an enormous area in Korat province, and being only three hours drive from Bangkok has created pressure for more local development than some visitors might care for. In contrast the flat-topped Phu Kradung or "cow-bell" mountain in the more distant province of Loei has quite Spartan facilities and requires a good deal more effort to reach, including a walk of several hours from the visitor centre at the base to the stunning views from the top.
Getting Around
Facilities in some twenty smaller cities are more limited, but better than adequate for most visitors. Several recently created "homestay" enterprises scattered across the region provide travellers with an authentic view of village life and traditional crafts such as silk production. Agencies offer packages for regular events each year like November's elephant round-up in Surin, the Phi Mai festival and boat races, and the Yasothon rocket festival.
Booking.com
A Round Trip
Beyond the parks, monuments and special events there is much to recommend taking the night sleeper train from Bangkok to Nongkhai, a casual drive for a day or two down the Mekong valley through charming riverside towns like Nakhon Phanom and Mukdahan to Ubonratchathani, and a return train ride back to the capital. The railway passes through Buriram a few kilometres north of Phanom Rung, a side visit for a few hours would provide the trip with a memorable final highlight.
More Information:
The Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand.org) is a good initial source of further practical and historical information on the Isan region.
Author Sunil S.
Not surprisingly, Phanom Rung has been proposed as part of a World Heritage site that will be the third to be designated by UNESCO within this region. More surprisingly, there is almost nobody here.
Welcome to Isan
Since the 1980s Thailand's tourist industry has boomed massively and a few favourite destinations like the capital Bangkok, the city of Chiengmai in the north and Phuket in the far south attract millions of visitors each year. The Northeast region, or "Isan" as it is known locally, has remained curiously outside most travel itineraries.
Booking.com
Isan makes up a third of the country's area and while it lacks a sea coast it has its own distinctive history, culture and traditions, and it has much to offer the traveller who is looking for a real break from the everyday 21st century world. Links have always been strong across the magnificent Mekong river, which forms the border with modern Laos. The people of Isan and Laos share a common language, as well as similar forms of music, local customs and cuisine.
Ancient Roots
But remnants of ancient Cambodian civilizations are among the most prominent items on a list of the region's attractions. The Phi Mai temple complex near Isan's largest city, Nakhon Ratchasima (locally known as Korat), is more accessible than Phanom Rung, though less spectacular. Further east at the southern tip of Sisaket province the Khao Phra Vihan temple was built on what seems an impossible site at the top of an escarpment rising from the forested plains of northern Cambodia.
Further to the north near Udornthani the archaeological site at Ban Chiang has attracted scientific interest since its discovery 40 years ago. It was then the world's oldest known bronze age site and led to a recalibration of the early stages of human history.
The Great Outdoors
The region's national parks offer opportunities for hiking, bird watching and other forms of nature study, as well as less demanding outdoor activities. Khao Yai covers an enormous area in Korat province, and being only three hours drive from Bangkok has created pressure for more local development than some visitors might care for. In contrast the flat-topped Phu Kradung or "cow-bell" mountain in the more distant province of Loei has quite Spartan facilities and requires a good deal more effort to reach, including a walk of several hours from the visitor centre at the base to the stunning views from the top.
Honoring a Deceased Mother on Mother's Day
First Mother's Day – History of Mother's Day
Getting Around
Facilities in some twenty smaller cities are more limited, but better than adequate for most visitors. Several recently created "homestay" enterprises scattered across the region provide travellers with an authentic view of village life and traditional crafts such as silk production. Agencies offer packages for regular events each year like November's elephant round-up in Surin, the Phi Mai festival and boat races, and the Yasothon rocket festival.
Booking.com
A Round Trip
Beyond the parks, monuments and special events there is much to recommend taking the night sleeper train from Bangkok to Nongkhai, a casual drive for a day or two down the Mekong valley through charming riverside towns like Nakhon Phanom and Mukdahan to Ubonratchathani, and a return train ride back to the capital. The railway passes through Buriram a few kilometres north of Phanom Rung, a side visit for a few hours would provide the trip with a memorable final highlight.
More Information:
The Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand.org) is a good initial source of further practical and historical information on the Isan region.
Author Sunil S.
Comments