Hunched over, deep in a dank mine shaft in Brazil, one must wonder, could a blow of a miner’s helmet send the walls crumbling down, taking lives in the same fashion it robbed so many 18th century slaves of theirs? 260 years ago, one determined man’s sweat dripped onto this same floor. He suffered through backbreaking and dangerous work in this mine nestled in the hills. Chico Rei was the chief of his tribe in the Congo when he was taken from his home and forced into slavery in Ouro Preto, a small gold boomtown in the hills of Minas Gerais, Brazil, six hours northwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Chico set himself apart from the rest by the golden highlights in his hair. His highlights didn’t come from the sunlight or salon, but from the gold flakes he smuggled out of the mine in his hair. After purchasing both he and his son’s freedom with the golden dandruff, the two of them bought Encardideira, known today as Chico Rei’s mine. The father and son team worked together to earn enough to free many other slaves before Dom Pedro outlawed the right.
Ouro Preto
Ouro Preto is a quaint town, best experienced by wandering through the cobblestone streets that connect its various churches. These churches house the works of the famous artists Antonio Francisco Lisboa, nicknamed “Aleijadinho” (Little Cripple) and Manuel da Costa Ataíde. Santa Efigênia, the richest church in terms of artwork, was constructed by the slaves through their earnings in Encardideira. They made offerings to the church by rinsing their hair in the Holy water, leaving behind little flakes of gold. They also smuggled gold under their fingernails and tooth cavities; how, one would wonder, would modern priests react to devout offerings of fingernail gunk, tooth scum, and hair flakes?
The road from the Encardideira mine to the Santa Efigênia church is well worn by the footsteps and the legends of people who walked it. Today, the route and historical buildings lining its path remain the same, but the hardships and torment of the slaves have mercifully long since gone. Perhaps, though, their spirits still linger, yearning for their freedom from deep within the chambers of Chico’s mine.
If you go:
Ouro Preto is 98 kilometers from the capital Belo Horizonte or 403 kilometers from Rio, about nine hours. Buses go nightly from Rio’s rodoviária with Utíl at 10:00 pm. Frequent buses leave from Belo Horizonte on Pássaro Verde. The closest airport to Ouro Preto is a mountainous 110 kilometer ride away in Pampulha.
In the 1700’s, Ouro Preto boomed with gold, leaving the town with today’s historical treasures—17 churches dispersed throughout the city, 3868 feet high in the hills of Minas Gerias. Today, people go in search of precious stones, found in the various fine jewelry shops along the steep cobbled streets. Stop in the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi—designed by Aleijadinho. The ceiling fresco was by Brazilian artist Manuel da Costa Ataíde. Arrange for a tour of the region’s surrounding mines. Ouro Preto also boasts an excellent alternative Carnival.
Where to Stay:
Pousada Nello Nano (Rua Camilo de Brito 59; (55)31-3551-3375; triples from $60) offers a good breakfast and country-style rooms. The more luxurious Mondego ((55)31-3551-2040; doubles from $109) is next to the Saint Francis of Assisi.
What to Eat:
Tutu Mineria is the region’s local cuisine. A little bit of this rich food goes a long way. Smoked sausage, collared greens, pork rinds, and a bean puree mixed with manioc flour. Restaurante Chafariz(Rua São José 167; 55-31 - 3551-2828) is good option for Mina’s food.
Chico set himself apart from the rest by the golden highlights in his hair. His highlights didn’t come from the sunlight or salon, but from the gold flakes he smuggled out of the mine in his hair. After purchasing both he and his son’s freedom with the golden dandruff, the two of them bought Encardideira, known today as Chico Rei’s mine. The father and son team worked together to earn enough to free many other slaves before Dom Pedro outlawed the right.
Ouro Preto
Ouro Preto is a quaint town, best experienced by wandering through the cobblestone streets that connect its various churches. These churches house the works of the famous artists Antonio Francisco Lisboa, nicknamed “Aleijadinho” (Little Cripple) and Manuel da Costa Ataíde. Santa Efigênia, the richest church in terms of artwork, was constructed by the slaves through their earnings in Encardideira. They made offerings to the church by rinsing their hair in the Holy water, leaving behind little flakes of gold. They also smuggled gold under their fingernails and tooth cavities; how, one would wonder, would modern priests react to devout offerings of fingernail gunk, tooth scum, and hair flakes?
The road from the Encardideira mine to the Santa Efigênia church is well worn by the footsteps and the legends of people who walked it. Today, the route and historical buildings lining its path remain the same, but the hardships and torment of the slaves have mercifully long since gone. Perhaps, though, their spirits still linger, yearning for their freedom from deep within the chambers of Chico’s mine.
If you go:
Ouro Preto is 98 kilometers from the capital Belo Horizonte or 403 kilometers from Rio, about nine hours. Buses go nightly from Rio’s rodoviária with Utíl at 10:00 pm. Frequent buses leave from Belo Horizonte on Pássaro Verde. The closest airport to Ouro Preto is a mountainous 110 kilometer ride away in Pampulha.
In the 1700’s, Ouro Preto boomed with gold, leaving the town with today’s historical treasures—17 churches dispersed throughout the city, 3868 feet high in the hills of Minas Gerias. Today, people go in search of precious stones, found in the various fine jewelry shops along the steep cobbled streets. Stop in the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi—designed by Aleijadinho. The ceiling fresco was by Brazilian artist Manuel da Costa Ataíde. Arrange for a tour of the region’s surrounding mines. Ouro Preto also boasts an excellent alternative Carnival.
Where to Stay:
Pousada Nello Nano (Rua Camilo de Brito 59; (55)31-3551-3375; triples from $60) offers a good breakfast and country-style rooms. The more luxurious Mondego ((55)31-3551-2040; doubles from $109) is next to the Saint Francis of Assisi.
What to Eat:
Tutu Mineria is the region’s local cuisine. A little bit of this rich food goes a long way. Smoked sausage, collared greens, pork rinds, and a bean puree mixed with manioc flour. Restaurante Chafariz(Rua São José 167; 55-31 - 3551-2828) is good option for Mina’s food.
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