Braised Bison Osso Buco: a Sustainable, Delicious, Healthy Dinner

You may be familiar with Osso Buco from shanks (shin bones) of veal, beef or even pork. You may be a fan of marrow. If you’re new to marrow, new to bison, or even new to osso buco, this dish will make you a convert.

Bison is Better

First, let’s talk about sustainability. It’s wise to consider that people tend to turn into toddlers when you give them rules. Judgement has no place at a civil dinner table. Don’t tell someone they can’t eat meat or shouldn’t eat veal. “Sensible sustainability” is gaining steam as a “baby steps” approach that helps people make smarter choices. But emphasis should be first on taste. Why eat it if it doesn’t taste good? So rather than start from the negative, start with the positive. Look for a class near you to learn more about cooking with Sustainable Meats.


Bison is lower in saturated fat than beef. In fact, ground bison has 25% fewer calories and half the saturated fat of even grass-fed ground beef! Lower cholesterol, higher iron and more B vitamins contribute to its heart-healthy profile. Bison is a grazing animal that is an important part of the Great Plains ecosystem. The type of impact a grazing herd of bison have on the earth is healthy and worlds apart from confined beef industrial farms which is the majority of what you’ll find in grocery stores. Of course, pastured beef has a similar environmental impact if it’s raised on pasture and grass-fed.

What is Osso Buco?

Osso Buco actually translates to “hole in the bone.” The shanks come from the shin bones, a cut that is flavorful and relatively inexpensive. Braised properly you will get as much satisfaction from these shanks as you would from a steak or chop. Osso buco can be made from shanks of veal, beef, lamb, or pork. All may be prepared in this fashion; the technique is more important than the exact recipe here.

Technique over Recipe

Some recipes one must follow “to a T.” In this case, the technique is as or more important than the precise ingredients. Once you learn this braising technique you may vary the ingredients in innumerable ways. Braising is fundamental to coaxing flavor from these flavorful cheap cuts of meat (e.g., chuck roast, brisket). If you have an old stewing hen or rooster and you use red wine, it’s Coq au Vin. If you use beef and beer, it’s Carbonnade.

Classically, veal osso buco is served with Risotto Milanese.

Bison Osso Buco

This will feed four and is wonderful served with polenta or risotto or a savory bread pudding (try mushroom and leeks). It's an easy dish to put together then place in the oven and forget it for hours. The basic outline and technique will serve you well no matter what you braise.

Ingredients

6 - 8 (1 lb) bison shanks (or veal or lamb shanks)
1 C seasoned flour*
3 TBSP olive oil
4 C chicken stock, plus more as needed
2/3 C white wine
1/4 C chopped fresh parsley
2 TBSP chopped fresh sage
1 sprig fresh rosemary
8 medium garlic cloves, crushed, peeled
Technique

In a heavy Dutch oven, sear the seasoned shanks in olive oil. This develops flavor through browning the meat. It also adds visual appeal to the finished dish. You will most likely need to do this in batches as overcrowding the pan will cause the meat to steam, instead of sear. We want some rich dark color to develop.

As the shanks are browned, remove them to a plate. Once browned, deglaze Dutch oven with wine, scraping up the browned bits in the bottom with a wooden spoon. (You may also add chunks of carrot, celery, onion to the oil, brown then deglaze.)

Add the stock, herbs, return shanks to pot. Be sure that liquid almost completely covers the shanks. If not you can add a sheet of parchment to keep moisture in.

Braise in 350 degree oven for 2 hours, reduce heat to 300 and braise for additional 4 to 6 hours until the meat is meltingly tender and falling off the bone.

* To season flour: start with Wondra Sauce & Gravy flour. Add tsp garlic powder, dried oregano, dried thyme, freshly ground black pepper, rosemary salt, mushroom salt

* alternately just add pimentón, garlic powder, salt and black pepper to flour

Gremolata

Chop together zest of lemon, cloves of garlic, sprigs of parsley. This mix is the classic accompaniment to braised shanks. Added just as you plate the dish, the brightness of the gremolata heightens the dish considerably.

Another way to finish this dish is to add a splash of brandy or cognac or sherry vinegar at the very end of cooking. The alcohol in the brandy will help carry the aromas from dish to diner. The vinegar will brighten the dish contrasting nicely with the long simmered flavors.

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